There’s a palpable sense of enthusiasm and ambition at Pan. Servers exude homey affability mixed with strong food knowledge, while the kitchen displays confidence and flair. The menu shows Greek classics alongside a number of Mediterranean-influenced house specialties. Eggplant melitzanosalata dip is lush and light with subtle garlic. An entrée-size appetizer of pan-fried chicken livers in lemon, white wine, garlic and herbs tastes slightly bitter, though the dish is pleasantly balanced by mesclun tossed in sweet balsamic vinaigrette. A variation on kakavia—fisherman’s stew—offers sumptuous oregano-infused tomato and white wine broth with plump and perfectly tender scallops, calamari, mussels and shrimp. A house-smoked double pork chop is roasted ecstasy, served atop decadently creamy feta dauphinoise and finished with a caramelized orange glaze. Desserts excel, especially the homemade fig and port ice cream. The wine list shows many bottles under $50, with unusual depth in rosés and Niagara bottles. Mains $16–$28.