Danny Grossman
How the modern dance guru, whose company performs at Harbourfront this month, would spend a single perfect day. Toronto on ... By Amy Verner
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Named for owner Lambros Vassiliou, the Danforth’s latest venue bills itself as a Greek meze bar. The first five menu items (all under $10) are classic mezethes (salty, intensely flavoured snacks to nibble with a glass of ouzo): bresaola-like cured beef or a yogurt dip spiked with cucumber, tomato and dill. But with the renowned restaurateur and party maestro Aristedes Pasparakis as executive chef, more interesting treats are in store. Grilled octopus is deliciously charred, impeccably paired with a smooth purée of yellow split peas crowned with raw onion. Yellow chicken is tender grilled chicken breast with soft bulgur wheat that soaks up the rich saffron yogurt sauce, served with sweet kumquat compote and chili sauce. Other dishes are less effective. Mussel pilaf sweetened with pine nuts and raisins looks pretty, but the rice is cold. A small list of wines includes some reasonably priced Greek bottles. The biggest issue is the haphazard decor, brightened by faux sunflowers. Small plates $4–$15.
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