Soft light illuminates a stunning marble-topped bar that runs half the length of this narrow space in the Beach. If you know it’s there, it must be tempting to drop by casually, though most diners on this night seem to have reserved, a reflection of popularity and limited space. The menu respects no single tradition, and several dishes have many influences. Crispy won tons hide morsels of slightly spiced ground beef. The corn and avocado salsa alongside is more the former than the latter, making the whole dish strangely evocative of a Latin-Asian shepherd’s pie. Several impeccably grilled shrimp canopy a small black bean and avocado salad. Citrus papaya dressing helps bridge the gaps. Duck confit, crisped on the outside, reveals tender and flavourful flesh underneath. The accompanying Israeli couscous takes well to the duck jus; every bead is coveted. The wine list is wide-reaching. Service is efficient. Mains $17–$29.