This little sliver of Leslie­ville plays it safe—unfussy decor, a simple menu of bistro favourites—yet it’s hard not to fall for the room’s neutral-toned charms and Brad Clark’s smart traditional French cooking. A glass of wine from the affordable list and an outstanding caramelized onion–chèvre tart (we cooed over it until the second course arrived) make for a relaxing start. Mains continue to dazzle. Rich thyme-spiked mushroom risotto is a welcome Italian touch; marvellously salty steak frites with bordelaise sauce is full of flavour and could be one of the best steak bargains in town. Dessert, unfortunately, tastes like an afterthought: bitter blackberry coulis mars an otherwise delightful upside-down cake. Service is pitch perfect. Mains $22–$30.