Warm wood lends the intimate front room a more relaxed mood than the grandeur of the main salon. It’s a welcoming setting for chef-patron Didier Leroy’s classically conceived, meticulously presented French food. Many dishes are admirably simple. Salad hollandaise offers a generous slab of balik salmon topped with Canadian sturgeon caviar set beside one delicately sliced fingerling potato with chopped shallots and olive oil. Vichyssoise is not as well judged, the ingredient balance weighted toward bland potato. Tender Cornish hen wrapped in prosciutto works well with soft red rice and a subtly tangy sauce diable. A civil bouillabaisse (Marseilles style, with saffron and tomato) is loaded with shrimp, pickerel, Arctic char and tiny fresh peas. Coarsely chopped beef tenderloin tartare, correctly seasoned, keeps company with decent frites. Desserts are among Toronto’s best: quivering chocolate gelée in strawberry consommé garnished with halved cherries, their “stones” carved from peach; and a to-die-for banana soufflé. Servers are attentive. Ontario provides bargains on a mostly French wine list. Mains $24–$34.