The dark wood bar, honeycombed floor tiles and crisp linens lend the dining room an upscale bistro feel, while an air of sophistication is reinforced by chef Pascal Ribreau’s ability to craft dishes that balance Gallic tradition with his own culinary creativity. Appetizers set a lofty standard: a medley of foie gras, including seductive pot de crème and unctuous torchon, marries perfectly with pumpkin mini-brioche and sour-sweet quince pomegranate jelly. A platter of seafood—bracing paprika-crusted langoustine, delicate ribbons of house-smoked salmon dressed with the murmuring heat of honey mustard, and grilled “Caesar-style” octopus presented in a crouton cone—also thrills. Mains might include a perfectly seasoned seared lamb sirloin, garnished with a thicket of crispy shoestring potatoes, is blissful. Self-assured ser-vers recommend excellent wine matches from an award-winning, largely French list. Meals this fine deserve a conclusion as delightful as a trio of wondrous custards: baked calvados cream, earl grey crème brûlée, and a hazelnut pot de crème for the ages. Mains $29–$39.