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RestaurantsFrench

Célestin starstar½ [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeLast May, chef-patron Pascal Ribreau left to make a TV show in France, selling Célestin to his long-time sous, Ivan Tarazona. Fans of this quintessential French restaurant find little has changed. The old bank vault stores part of the wine collection, rich in reasonably priced regional French bottlings. Following closely in Ribreau’s footsteps, Tarazona’s meticulous, ever-changing menu avoids cliché. The grill adds a delicate crust to tender octopus, its flavour boosted with chorizo; potato-ribbon cannelloni stuffed with firm shrimp mousse keep their distance on the plate. Mains are demure, correct, a little dispassionate. Flawless lamb sirloin deserves more than a few fava beans and some too-firm spaetzle. Side vege­tables range from an over-disciplined ratatouille to yummy Lyonnais potatoes. Deft, amiable service. Mains $22–$33.

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