On a dark night, when this little boîte on a quiet street is aglow, its orange walls and dark wooden bar gleaming, there’s nary a cozier place in the city. Savvy staff navigate close-set tables (the front patio is more comfortable on a summer night). Owners and chefs Jason Inniss and Bertrand Alépée are squeezed into the tiny kitchen, conjuring constantly changing menus of intricate, flavourful dishes, occasionally with a well-integrated molecular gesture. Beads of tomato “caviar,” for instance, compose one of several garnishes for a ceviche of scallop and preserved lemon, finely balanced between citrus and sweet, and finished with a ball of avocado ice cream. A wee slice of fig-and-fennel pie works brilliantly with seared foie gras; science turns truffle oil to a white powder, as soft as talc, that melts back to oil on the tongue. More conventional mains bring gorgeous grilled lamb loin and a soft, juicy merguez sausage plated with thick sunchoke purée, dainty favas and a rich croquette of truffled sweet potato. Alépée is a master of dessert, his talent flaunted with a classic rum baba or a raspberry mousse on pistachio sponge topped with wild strawberry “spaghetti.” A skilfully assembled wine list concentrates on the $50 to $80 range (with France well represented). Mains $22–$34.