Restaurants › Diner
Fanny Chadwick’s [?]
- 268 Howland Ave. (at Dupont St.) • View on map »
- 416-944-1606
The strip of Dupont west of Casa Loma needed a welcoming neighbourhood place (the adjacent Indian Rice Factory has had the monopoly for decades), and Fanny Chadwick’s, a diner-bistro hybrid, will easily fill the void. The crowd is a mix of students, seniors and families (in a nearby booth, a father explains intellectual property law to his five- and seven-year-old boys, who are clad in karate uniforms). The food—diner-inspired, locally sourced fare at upscale prices (pan-seared fish and chips are $18)—is generally good, but editing would help some of the cluttered dishes shine. The gravlax salad, for example, features naturally raised, Ocean Wise–approved steelhead trout, but the delicate fish is masked by a deluge of horseradish vinaigrette and a grab bag of greens, croutons and pickled vegetables. A bowl of steamed clams, on the other hand, is pared down and delicious in a flavourful herbed vermouth sauce. The Rowe Farms corned beef is fall-apart tender and pairs perfectly with smoky, molasses-kissed baked beans. Forgo bland desserts, like a starchy sweet potato butter tart, in favour of a latte from the Elektra espresso machine. Mains $16–$22.
- Closed Monday
268 Howland Ave. (at Dupont St.)
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