Though it’s hardly worth the drive for Toronto diners, this modern room on Oakville’s main drag offers good cooking—some of it excellent—and a menu stacked with high-end proteins. Starter house gnocchi are a highlight: nearly as light as meringue and deeply flavoured (though lacking in the advertised parsnip), topped with a dollop of fresh ricotta and trumpet mushrooms, set astride a creamy mushroom braise of leeks and chard. Steak tartare isn’t bad, though too much of the beef’s flavour is lost to over-generous (and under-seasoned) creamy saucing. Mains generally succeed. A pair of refreshingly gamy venison chops is cooked nicely to medium rare and accompanied by a decidedly uncrispy rösti and a comforting “fondue” of creamed leeks and spinach. Duck breast arrives cooked just past medium and sided with smoky grilled polenta and braised shallots. Service is friendly, though wanting (if only they could remember who ordered what). The wine program falls short of Thyme’s “wine bar” billing; though there are plenty of reds, the sel­ection of whites and local offerings is thin. And when asked about a bottling from Oregon, the waiter responds with rapturous praise. When pressed, though, he’s unable to provide any description of what the wine actually tastes like. Solid, safe desserts include warm chocolate brownie with grapefruit mascarpone. Mains $27–$43.