Before menus are even presented, the kitchen sends out a two-tiered tray of scrumptious hors d’oeuvres: ratatouille tartlets, rosemary-parmesan biscuits and shot glasses of satiny squash soup perfumed with a drop of hazelnut oil. It sets the tone for an evening of pure decadence. Chef and co-owner David Lee offers a traditional table d’hôte or a luxe tasting menu that respects the seasons and shows a patriotic fondness for Canadian ingredients. Presented on a polished slab of wood, duck charcuterie is interpreted three ways: gossamer petals of cured breast; a rustic terrine with Berkshire pork, hazelnuts and prunes; and a slice of Quebec foie gras cooked sous-vide to gasp-inducing silkiness. A flair for balancing textures is revealed in a pan-seared Dungeness crab cake nestled in a silky avocado relish and crowned with a crunchy slaw of cucumber, green papaya and jellyfish. With a Tuscan heart and Canadian spirit, a small mid-course pasta—just a few perfect bites—finds pappardelle bathed in an allspice-scented ragoût of wild Nunavut caribou and Niagara pancetta. It keeps the palate humming until the mains arrive. Lobster is poached in butter to tenderness and perched on a puddle of sunchoke purée with wilted spinach, pressure-cooked legumes and a lobster emulsion; taking the dish to the next level are tiny florets of pickled cauliflower, which add a welcome crunch and balance the richness of the crustacean. Boneless lamb loin from Haldimand County is pan-roasted and served on a fan of braised fennel with rosemary-scented jus; sharing the plate and stealing the spotlight are tortellini stuffed with braised shank meat that explode with flavour. Desserts, while flawlessly executed, don’t dazzle with the same intensity as the mains. A light, fluffy soufflé lacks the robustness you would expect from the brand. The wine list delves deep into France and Italy, though there are more bottles above $1,000 than below $50. Co-owner Yannick Bigourdan choreographs a phalanx of smartly dressed servers who anticipate every need. Mains $42–$55.