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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 88 Harbord St. (at Spadina) View on map »
  • 416-929-7788
Editorial Review

This is fine dining at its most accomplished. Impeccable service shines as a champagne cart delivers delicate canapés. The eight-course tasting menu ($140, plus $98 for expertly matched wines) starts with tiny tastes of outstanding house charcuterie and continues with tuna tartare that’s anything but cliché with its satin-textured fish, pungent nori purée, diced pickled cucumber and crunchy tempura bits. Molecular techniques turn breakfast—eggs, bacon, black pudding and beans on toast—into a miniaturist’s fantasy. The wine list balances global nobility with local discoveries. Gourmands take note: there will soon be a changing of the guard. Long-time owners David Lee and Yannick Bigourdan have sold the restaurant to loyal staff. General manager Carlo Cattalo and chef de cuisine Victor Barry will soon be updating the space and the menu. Mains $46–$55.

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