Despite high turnover in the kitchen, this cozy Lawrence Park favourite continues to offer well-made fare with a more avant-garde sensibility than its competition along the strip. Warm baguette, caraway-flecked flatbread and garlicky roasted artichoke hummus make a good first impression. On this visit, a duo of sea scallops dazzles with contrasting tastes and textures: one rotund specimen is richly caramelized in butter and nestled in a satiny squash purée; the other comes raw and diced into a refreshing vodka-spiked ceviche with pink grapefruit. A boneless game hen is succulent, glazed with tangy pomegranate jus and worthily supported by addictive Israeli couscous and braised red chard. Fennel-crusted salmon is woefully overcooked, but delectably sweet root vegetable mash offers some consolation. With a roof of caramelized apples, bread pudding is like tarte tatin’s decadent doppelgänger. The wine card offers some offbeat gems. Friendly service can get stuck in the slow lane. Mains $19–$28.