This bastion of fine dining maintains its mantra of consistent excellence. The recent news that the restaurant’s 20-year home will be turned into condos in late 2009 has ruffled feathers among regulars (there are many) who will miss its spectacular view of downtown. Until the restaurant moves to a new location, gracious servers continue to anticipate the slightest wish, ensuring that the mood is as serene as ever. Chef-co-owner Keith Froggett’s harmonious seasonal menu reprises a number of favourites. Yellowfin tuna tartare derives Asian tang from a lime, ginger and soy marinade and sweetness from a cara-melized soy glaze; fresh coriander and shards of crispy taro finish the presentation. Tender rabbit ballottine wrapped in tissue-thin bacon is almost outshone by its accompaniments: fresh peas, ramps, baby beets, morels and golden chanterelles. Accomplished desserts include a heavenly cherry-almond cake. A thoughtful wine list takes big spenders to France and California. Mains $34–$46.