Chef Michael Steh (former Splendido sous) offers a vibrant, flavourful, contemporary cuisine. A pungent mix of peppers, capers, tomatoes and picholine olives, plus tangy tomato jelly, works well with tender octopus, but smothers the taste of yellowfin tuna carpaccio. Hokkaido scallops, seared rare, bathe in a frothy cauliflower soup sweetened with truffled honey. Crisp sweetbreads and grated truffle crown an outsized raviolo that oozes egg yolk and sweet puréed leek into a parmesan foam. These are richly seasoned dishes, but Steh can do subtle, too—juicy pan-seared cod fillet, for instance, with jerusalem artichoke purée and a jumble of enoki and black trumpet mushrooms. Cheese Boutique provides a dozen tasties; desserts are collations of many exuberant flavours. The famously broad wine list offers more than 60 global choices by the glass. Mains $29–$39.