Chef Pat Riley’s amicable departure has brought considerable changes. Most notably, the central open kitchen has been glassed in—a decorative choice that shifts attention to the room’s warm brick walls and massive wooden beams. Chef Christopher Brown offers an à la carte menu, but most choose the nine-course omakase ($120, plus $90 for sometimes epiphanic wine pairings). There are anomalous moments—a hot and sour veal consommé served between main course and cheese would have been better earlier in the meal—but most of the dishes beautifully combine modern techniques with traditional French concepts. Roasted black grouper shines alongside fondant potato discs and braised romaine, with shaved black truffle enlivening brown butter. The offal plate thrills: a mini-burger of sweetbreads with pickled white asparagus and julienne radish; creamy calf’s brain in crisp panko crumbs refreshed by a lemon-cucumber salad; thinly sliced confit of goose gizzard with frisée and tarragon salad and a sliver of pig jowl. Dessert is happily lightweight—perhaps a white chocolate cake on grapefruit jelly with passion fruit mousse. This is the star of the Distillery District, and though pre-theatre dining is possible, it deserves an evening’s attention.