Abuzz at lunchtime, with skylights illuminating the bar, the soaring room is more serene after dark. Blond wood glows under flattering light; linen- clad tables are set a gracious distance apart. Martin Kouprie’s menu nods to the seasons with soft-shell crab salad and vernal soups, but permanent fixtures also have their fans—a gorgeous 10-ounce strip loin, perhaps, crusted from the grill and served with a tumble of vege­tables and a deep, dark jus. For starters, house-made lamb sausages are nicely juicy. Sweetly glazed quail could do with less tentative spicing, though battered onion rings (a curious partnership) are a treat. Timing is usually so correct that a slightly overcooked pickerel fillet raises eyebrows, its flavour no match for the rich sweetness of roasted roots and tubers. Pastry chef Joanne Yolles’s desserts are among the city’s best. Crème fraîche and rhubarb sorbet enhance a delicately crunchy rhubarb crumble. A revamped wine program sees more inventory from Burgundy, Bordeaux and Niagara, and mature three-figure stars sold by the glass. Mains $25–$46.