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RestaurantsContinental

Oro starstar½ [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeExposed yellow brick, starched white tablecloths and a candlelit hearth set the tone for the most polished option on Elm Street’s restaurant row. The wine program goes well beyond the big-ticket reds: each dish is thoughtfully paired. Chef Stanley Yung’s sophisticated take on northern Italian cooking hearkens back to the heyday of ’80s Cal-Ital cuisine. Grilled black cod falls into big, moist flakes at the touch of a fork; miso—an inescapable complement to this fish—amps up the umami of crisp roast fingerlings and lip-smacking butter sauce. Pistachio-crusted lamb, cooked perfectly medium, brings five melting ribs and pulled lamb in an intense tomato jus. Service is friendly and formal. Mains $20–$40.

  • map marker #1
    45 Elm St. (at Bay)
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