The cooking blends high-end French with little Asian touches, all filtered through the finest Canadian ingredients, with serious attention paid to the changing seasons. One visit sees a rare and tender spiced squab set off with sweet stone fruits and built into a complex terrine; seared black pepper–crusted tuna slices are arrayed like a corona over a shiitake rice cake with sake–shoyu–green onion beurre blanc. A beautifully caramelized pear tart is partnered with vanilla ice cream, the flavours heightened with champagne anglaise. Though the much-vaunted wine list is full of treasures, very few of them come cheap. Mains $35–$45.