The look and vibe are Manhattan glam, from the spacious sidewalk patio to the high-ceilinged bar to the dining room, all decorated with Yabu Pushelberg’s luxe sophistication. The energy lasts from lunchtime through dinner, with A‑listers table hopping and noise levels soaring. Mark McEwan’s ever-metamorphosing menu proposes a DIY structure for mains: proteins are presented with sauce and garnish, but starches and vege­tables are ordered separately to share. Possible combinations include a dish of buttery artichokes paired with superb sweetbreads, served with creamy onion purée and crisp petals of bacon; or the lemon and mint sweet-pea risotto matched with perch fillets, plainly pan-seared with parsley and butter. Simplicity is just as carefully achieved among starters. Chilled golden gazpacho is beautifully balanced between freshness, peppery heat and acidity. A warm salad of roasted heirloom carrots, soft avocado and fresh citrus braids sweetly earthy flavours. Scrambled eggs with soft chunks of bacon and grated black truffle reminds guests that the room is open for breakfast. Desserts make much of cakes and citrus. Meyer lemon mousse is spooned onto blini and topped with various candied peels. Passion fruit chantilly crowns a poppy seed angel food cake with summer berry compote. House cocktails are original, while the pricey wine list spends time in France and the U.S. The post-opening service glitches now seem to be mostly resolved. Mains $25–$140.