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RestaurantsContinental

North 44° starstarstarstar [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeLarge parties love the mezzanine and the private room near the kitchen, but the real action takes place on the main floor, where well-to-do patrons find culinary comfort in times of financial stress. Charismatic servers dispense collectible vintages from France and California. Mark McEwan’s food is triumphantly accessible, often opulently textured, but never overly complicated. Parsnip soup, for instance, is a rich purée sporting shredded duck confit and a drizzle of brown butter. Grilled veal tenderloin gets a rustic treatment, with chunks of heirloom beet, sturdy truffle gnocchi and sweet apple jus. Mains $35–$52.

  • Closed Sunday
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