Restaurants › Continental
Madeline’s
- 601 King St. W. (at Portland St.) • View on map »
- 416-603-2205
- http://www.susur.com/madelines/
THIS RESTAURANT IS NOW CLOSED
The dark, rococo room walks a fine line between Moroccan hookah bar and French Quarter brothel, though the taxidermic hens mounted on the wall tip the balance toward the latter. Susur Lee’s straightforward menu of Euro-inspired small plates is a major departure for a chef who’s a master of French-Asian cuisine. Diners expecting the fireworks of the chef’s famous tasting menus will be disappointed, but anyone looking for bistro classics with a twist will be content. Pillow-soft ricotta gnocchi nearly levitate above the plate; meaty shiitakes, crunchy pine nuts and nutty parmigiano create dumpling divinity. Rosy petals of crisp-skinned duck breast are napped with a sticky jus sweetened with slivers of candied orange. It would shine brighter served a few degrees hotter than tepid. Dessert brings a beguilingly buttery apple-cherry strudel. The wine list remains inappropriately expensive, a clearing house for the defunct Susur. Smart service. Small plates $6–$27.
601 King St. W. (at Portland St.) | This location is wheelchair accessible
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