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RestaurantsContinental

Madeline’s starstar [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe dark, rococo room walks the line between Moroccan hookah bar and French Quarter brothel, though the taxidermic hens mounted on the wall tip the balance to the latter. Diners expecting the fireworks of Susur Lee’s famous tasting menus will be disappointed, but anyone looking for bistro classics with a twist will be content. Pillow-soft ricotta gnocchi nearly levitate above the plate; shiitakes, pine nuts and parmigiano create dumpling divinity. Rosy petals of crisp-skinned duck breast are napped with a sticky jus with slivers of candied orange. It would shine even brighter served a few degrees hotter than tepid. Dessert brings a beguilingly buttery apple-cherry strudel. The wine list remains inappropriately expensive—a clearing house for the defunct Susur. Smart service. Small plates $8–$25.

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