It’s an ingenious idea: creating a suave bar halfway between the Drake and the Gladstone and bringing in an ambitious young chef (Olivia Bolano) to feed the thirsty hipsters. The room has the requisite West Queen West trappings: exposed brick, antique chandeliers hanging from a high ceiling over a long, glossy bar. Retro music and videos play in the early evening, before the decibels cross the pain threshold. For those dining at the bar or at black-clad high-top tables, the menu offers culturally eclectic, relatively expensive, tapas-sized dishes, their quality hit-and-miss. Moist black cod in light tempura batter with malt tartar sauce is a highlight, but yellowfin sashimi is a crudely cut slab of membranous tuna. Osso buco is done right, the meat meltingly braised, its richness perked up by tomato tabbouleh and mint gremolata. Two desserts—Red Bull sorbet and caramel-apple s’mores—are as unappetizing as they sound. Glamorous servers are friendly and efficient. A short, expensive wine list plays it safe. Small plates $8–$16.