He encapsulated Queen West’s mood as co-creator of Czehoski; now Dave Mitton is doing the same for Harbord’s foodscape, creating a sophisticated but disarmingly unpretentious hangout. The small room has a friendly air; a back patio doubles the 30-seat capacity once summer comes. It’s a good size for chef Cory Vitiello (ex of The Drake), whose small menu offers beautifully conceived temptations. Lean slices of local lamb leg are judiciously paired with bitter chard and a creamy mash of potato and brown-butter cauliflower; the meaty jus mixes with green olives and a lemon-garlic salsa verde on the plate. Hot smoked salmon may be overcooked for some, but freshly grated horseradish, a wedge of potato rösti and sweet slow-cooked cabbage enhance its delicate smoky flavour. For afters, roasted pineapple on puff pastry with coconut ice cream and toasted coconut curls. The smart wine list is described by friendly, well-informed servers. No wonder it’s already a neighbourhood fave. Mains $18–$29.