Textiles in shades of moss and sage, polished green-tiled columns and frosted bubble-glass partitions lend this triple-tiered Yorkville resto-lounge a sleek, aquatic feel. However, too many hard surfaces mean decibels soar as the room fills up. Chef Richard Andino’s cooking brings a similar aesthetic to the menu, mixing Pacific and continental influences to deliver dishes with lively flavours. Arctic black cod is tender, with a nicely salty black bean rub, but the accompanying jasmine rice and quince compote are dry. An overpriced ($32.95) beef short rib has rich flavour but needs at least another hour of braising; alongside, the pastry pouch of shredded treviso and truffle-infused mashed taro is a show-stopper. Smiling staff keep the atmosphere light and unpretentious. Mains $29–$46.