The ground floor buzzes as friends enjoy a casual night out at this quintessential Queen West destination; upstairs, the mood mellows, ideal for a meal for two. Chef Nathan Isberg’s menu walks that same fine line between casual comfort food and understated refinement, with mixed results. Luscious chicken liver pâté with rosewater-scented apples impresses, but the goodwill is short-lived: smoked-miso and Ontario cheddar poutine approaches the realm of superb comfort food until it delivers a salty wallop. Mains recapture only some of the lost glory. In a nod to the place’s Czech roots, satisfying brie and truffle pierogies are pan-fried in butter (giving them a disconcerting grilled cheese taste) and served with an apt complement of sauerkraut. Juicy roasted poussin would be rave worthy if it weren’t accompanied by chewy, flavourless spaetzle. In desserts, a calvados crème brûlée tastes nothing like the eponymous apple brandy, and pales in comparison to a delectable baked chocolate mousse. An affordable, international wine list. Mains $21–$32.