The restaurant on the fifth floor of the ROM’s Michael Lee-Chin Crystal aims for contemporary sophistication rather than institutional convention. Ivory leather sofas and smoked-glass tabletops look handsome in the soaring space. Sunlight floods in through angled windows that allow spectacular urban views. An army of attentive lilac-shirted servers delivers chef Teddy Corrado’s meticulous, technically accomplished dishes. Five raw elements share one plate: three kinds of sashimi, imaginatively garnished; gingery steak tartare on foie gras mousse; an oyster with wakame salad and prosecco granita. Sea urchin foam boosts the flavour of seared hokkaido scallops paired with a fascinating salad of fennel, gruyère, chanterelles and aromatic leaves. Dungeness crab salad on a rich avocado relish is less exciting, a mound of quinoa and chopped poblano stealing the show. Sous-vide squab breast perfectly captures the flavour of the bird, the lily gilded with seared foie gras and squab leg confit; Indian spices spark an accompanying apricot chutney and red pepper curry sauce. The late innings are very well managed: a sel­ection of interestingly garnished cheeses followed by inventive desserts. New sommelier Jane Rogers has put together a Governor’s List of hard-to-find bottles; Canada is well represented. Mains $26–$37.