Restaurants › Continental
Centro
- 2472 Yonge St. (at Castlefield Ave.) • View on map »
- 416-483-2211
- http://www.centro.ca
Centro resumes its position among Toronto’s remaining handful of fine-dining restaurants. A quick facelift has simplified the look of the soaring room, the brown and white scheme casting a masculine mood for the flashy regulars. There’s new bounce in the step of the veteran staff, thanks in large part to the arrival of chef Jason Carter (Susur Lee’s long-time right hand), who brings discipline and creativity to every plate. Seafood salad is a harmony of textures: almost raw mussels, pinkie-sized shrimp, scallops, lobster, a garnish of lobster coral. Perfect sweetbreads in a crust of ground basmati are paired with many onion preparations; a sweet-sour honey vinegar glaze and dried orange zest subtly suggest China. Carter also understands the power of simplicity. Chicken consommé is strikingly pure, with silky slivers of poached chicken, shaved shiitake and a fine brunoise of celeriac; shaved black truffle is the coup de grâce. A bowl of raspberry compote and sorbet with vanilla whipped cream, tissue-thin tuile and cashews is a fitting final indulgence. A star-studded wine list has great depth in grands crus, cult Californians, champagne and digestifs. Mains $34–$40.
2472 Yonge St. (at Castlefield Ave.)
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