It’s impossible not to be impressed walking into this space, whether for the first time or the 15th. The greeting is as formal as it should be on the 54th floor of a bank tower, but it’s comfortable, too; the room bears all the fineries of high-end dining, but none of the fuss. The view over the city, through wall-to-wall, floor-to-ceiling glass, is second only to the view from the CN Tower. But chef Anthony Walsh’s well-staffed kitchen doesn’t cook like that of a touristy restaurant with a billion-dollar view. The cooking—resolutely Canadian and remarkably accomplished—is the best thing about the place. Seared yellow perch from Point Pelee gets a creative Spanish treatment, set over a loose and heady red risotto made with sweet red peppers, wild rice and honey mussels from B.C. St. Canut Farms roast organic suckling pig brings three interpretations of the Quebec producer’s unparalleled milk-fed piglet: roast loin on mustard-zinged spaetzle is tossed with rapini, riesling-soaked yellow raisins and bacon; a torchon is crusted in panko; and the belly is first braised, then roasted to fork tender, making it so deeply caramelized it’s on the cusp of being candied. Desserts reach for a similar level and succeed. Pastry chef Maria Cheung’s sticky toffee-date pudding is outrageously delicious; the only misstep is its accompanying parsnip ice cream. Service is terrific; wine pairings are thoughtful though expensive. Mains $39–$45.