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RestaurantsContinental

Bymark

Reviewed by Toronto LifeEven under the blazing lunchtime sun, Bymark’s suit-and-tie clientele takes to the patio, rather than the air-conditioned interior lounge or the subterranean dining room. Inside the jewel-box of a building, every seat feels like the best one in the house. Executive chef Brooke McDougall’s menu is filled with comforting dishes (super-sized and made with premium ingredients) at prices that Bay Street titans can be proud of. Beet chip taco shells hold a Toronto rarity: perfectly cooked shrimp. They’re gilded with pickled ginger, threads of jicama, and just a smidge of lemon aïoli. Inside a luxurious and unadulterated version of the classic Italian sandwich, stacks of veal, panko-crusted, fried in clarified butter and olive oil, share space with buffalo mozzarella, tomato sauce and roasted jalapeños—this is a kingly sandwich. Ordering the churros—with their crispy exteriors, dulce de leche filling and chocolate dipping sauce—is a no-brainer. A few affordable wines are available, though prices quickly climb to the “if you have to ask” strata. Mains $27–$50.

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