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RestaurantsContinental

Bymark starstar [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeThe exuberant pop of corks and the demand for $37 hamburgers aren’t what they used to be, but celebrity chef Mark McEwan’s Bay Street jewel retains its power-suited crowd and glossy glow. A hefty slab of seared foie gras is accompanied by crisp pancetta and the curious topping of a fried quail egg—a decorative rather than culinary addition. The deeply flavourful and tender strip loin is expertly seasoned and cooked; its side of broccolini with preserved Italian chilies is just right, but the sake-marinated onion rings taste like the deep fryer and are a limp disappointment. Dessert brings soft, warm churros. Even high rollers are looking for deals now, and the well-edited wine list delivers. Mains $27–$90.

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Toronto Life's much-anticipated list of the city’s 10 best new restaurants is on newsstands now. To whet appetites, James Chatto picks numbers 11 to 15

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