White-brick minimalism brings high-fashion hipness to Bloor West Village. The menu proposes fingerling crab cakes with chipotle mayo as options for browsing. Sea scallops deliver three behemoths, their juicy sweetness counterpoised with crunchy asparagus tempura, enoki mushrooms and an artichoke sauce. Bison tenderloin, strewn with frizzled onion reddened by a pool of brandy-pimento-peppercorn sauce, has a richly bovine taste. Salads surprise: honey–poppy seed dressing makes an unlikely but effective unifier for arugula, cranberry and blue cheese. Desserts continue the inventive contrasts, though with a heavier hand; a duo of offerings from Cheese Boutique is the savoury choice. Quiet, well-chosen jazz, polished service and a just-long-enough list of mainly New World wines at sensible prices make this an intriguing location for dinner. Mains $16–$38.