Hidden at the terminus of a tiny alley in a Burlington shopping plaza, chef-owner Matteo Paonessa’s stylish little jewel-box of a restaurant is ambitious. At its best, the cooking is extraordinary, the flavours more interesting than at many of Blacktree’s big city peers. But Paonessa hobbles the restaurant’s considerable strengths with user-unfriendly flourishes. The chef’s ever-changing à la carte menu is exhibit A, composed of enigmatic names but no descriptions: one evening’s choices include Slambon, Summer Cube, SOS Cucumber Pool and Game, a conceit that necessitates a server’s six-minute recital of what’s actually on offer. When dinner starts arriving, all is almost forgotten. The aforementioned SOS brings scallops, a raw oyster and seared swordfish lolling in a shallow moat of cucumber water and garnished with super-concentrated yellow “chips” made from golden beets. Some of the elements, like the beet chips, are enthralling; others, like the gritty, sand-choked raw oyster, less so. Mains are exceptional: Game, for instance, bringing lightly seared elk that’s nearly as tender as mousse, moist roast quail, intense wine-braised shallots and morels, and a roasted peach. The whole assembly sits atop dark wheat berries and is crowned with a carrot foam. Inventive desserts. Mains $30–$40.