It’s a good thing this shockingly bright room is jammed with tables: Toronto’s hungry in-the-knows line up at all hours of the day, willing to participate in communal dining. Swatow’s generous meat and seafood dishes are peppered with flawlessly cooked vege­tables and well-judged sauces more varied in seasoning than traditional Cantonese cuisine. Best bargains: heaping bowls of congee or any of the 28 varieties of noodle soup that can be customized with your choice of noodles, fish balls, beef brisket and seafood dumplings in a savoury broth. Char cheung lo mein spreads mild red chili sauce over fine egg noodles, pork, wood ear mushrooms and scallions. Of more than 20 rice dishes, the house favourite is Fuk-kin fried rice, a mix of peas, shrimp, crab, scallop, chicken and fried egg.