Families crowd a cheery space adorned with a wall mural of its namesake city. Running the northern Chinese gamut, the menu holds many delights. Cold apps shine: shards of cuke perched atop translucent noodles in clear garlic sauce, or chunks of soft eggplant topped with sweetish chili-garlic sauce. Soup dumplings, plump with gingered pork, are among the city’s best. Though generously portioned, smallish shrimp fail to taste much of the promised tea leaves, whereas tasty grouper in deeply flavoured wine sauce definitely does. Veggie-wise, al dente bean leaves trump mushy cabbage peppered with Chinese ham and reposing in cream sauce. (Not so) special fried rice topped with bok choy, tofu and a fried egg is just ho-hum. To end the meal, black sesame paste stuffs chewy dumplings in broth and made-to-order egg-white fritters. Servers are amiable. Mains $10–$15.