This rather tired, somewhat shabby and violently bright room has been Chinatown East’s best Cantonese restaurant for more than 15 years. It remains good and reasonably priced, although a little steep compared to its neighbours. As the well-heeled have moved north, the Chinese clientele has thinned out a bit and the variety—particularly live fish and seafood—has slimmed down. Still, the steamed pickerel is satisfying, as is one of the best steamed chickens available downtown. Fancier fare—perhaps fish maw and crab soup—is cooked with a skilled hand. Dinner is best ordered from the specials on the wall or by query. Seasonal offerings are available: braised lamb pot (skin-on in the Chinese manner), venison soup in the winter or double puy soup in the autumn. As usual, non-Chinese diners (the local gwai lo crowd) can choose from a special menu that includes several popular northern and Sichuan dishes, which are all tempered to southern sensibilities and thus not very authentic or particularly good. Service is friendly, if brusque. The daytime dim sum is good value and busy on weekends. Mains $10–$15.