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Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 4331 14th Ave. View on map »
  • Markham
  • 905-305-6088
Editorial Review

Designed in the 1950s in an optimistic (if ana­chronistic) way, this glass-windowed building in Markham glows bright green. Inside, nearly a dozen species of fish swim in tanks, ready for diners to select one for steaming. Large, whole, bright red shrimp must be decapitated and peeled before eating, but the effort and mess are worth it when the thick, tender flesh appears, poised for dipping in a lightly seasoned soy-based sauce. Whole or half duck is battered, deep-fried crisp and served with sweet lemon sauce. Sautéed onions give welcome punch to beef tenderloin, cooked slowly in a pepper sauce that falls pleasantly between gravy and jus. Most diners bring their own wine and pay the $7 corkage fee. Mains $11.25–$25.

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