Though it’s not quite as polished as Lai Wah Heen (its sister restaurant downtown), this elegant, modern Chinese room is nonetheless a worthwhile destination. The kitchen has an informed and steady hand with nouvelle-Cantonese cuisine, using such luxury ingredients as truffles, lobster (in a bisque piqued with morels) and foie gras (in flaky dim sum pastry). Some preparations are admirably simple, such as the pitch-perfect take on homestyle clam soup with taro vermicelli bundles. At other times, the Cantonese love of blending numerous complementary flavours is given excellent expression, as in the lightly battered cod rolls stuffed with green onion and cured ham, and smothered in a fine Dungeness crab sauce. Many of the dishes are spot on, while an occasional one misses in the details, such as the incongruous seaweed bed for the slightly too thick smoked duck breast. A short wine list suits the cuisine. Mains $18–$48.