Elaborate silkscreened lanterns, ornate wood-trimmed pillars and lightning-fast servers in ruby silk jackets—it’s almost as if the Last Emperor could drop by at any moment. Presented with great formality, amber strands of shark’s fin are first tossed like salad, then floated in a syrupy soup that tastes of beef gravy and provides a suitably mild backdrop to the subtle pop of delicate, barely salted cartilage. Braised tableside in a rich fish and chicken stock, a solitary morsel of Japanese abalone unleashes buttery notes of Pacific seaweed. Whole lobster baked in garlic sauce is flawless. Chicken soup provides a nice finish, each tender chunk of white meat infused with the tingling snap of sliced green onions. Mains $10–$50.