Named for the Silk Road city, this 650-plus-seat two-room extravaganza is sumptuously decorated. Private rooms accommodate parties or business meetings, and chef Ken Ho can adapt to any preference, offering traditional Cantonese dishes or his own sleek contemporary fusion. The former might star expensive conpoy scallops nestled in soft black algae, or crabmeat and king mushroom stirred with supreme sauce. Soups are gracefully executed—maybe a clear, lightweight consommé of chicken and Chinese ham with snap peas, prawn and crunchy-soft bamboo fungus. More modern dishes include seafood and chopped vegetables in a creamy curry sauce, gratinéed in a giant sea whelk shell. Springy shrimp mousseline and scallops are dressed with a delicate, unsweetened peach purée. Red bean or lotus paste lies at the heart of dessert pastries and tapioca wraps. A variety of teas are more interesting than the wines available. Mains $12–$22.