Standard-issue decor (drab broadloom, family-style round tables, faux-wood wainscotting) forms the setting for a commendably varied Chinese carte, rendered with skill. Burnished a deep mahogany, exemplary Peking duck wears parchment-crisp skin and juicy meat; rolled up in a pancake with hoisin and scallions, it’s sublime. A second course sees duck meat stir-fried with diced veg and served with lettuce leaves and a hoisin-like sauce—another superb roll-up. Elsewhere, crab claw bearing a ball of deep-fried crab-and-shrimp mousse is greaseless and juicy. Attentive, amiable servers. Mains $12–$35.