Families throng this mid-sized room, and for good reason— reliable, generously portioned Mandarin and Szechuan fare. Case in point: whisper-tender pork won tons swimming in a balanced chili and peanut sauce, and eggplant or chicken with peanuts and water chestnuts, both tossed with well-judged garlic sauces. A more adventuresome choice, eight skewers of tender lamb strips wear gossamer tempura and a cumin-centred spice mix. “Assorted vermicelli” brings al dente rice noodles tossed with pork, scrambled egg, shrimp, chicken and green onion, but Szechuan shredded beef could be crispier. Desserts excel and include tender-crisp pancakes stuffed with red bean paste, and deep-fried honey-dipped apple chunks. Short-staffing can make for a long night. Cash only. Mains $8–$29.