Massive emigration from the relatively poor Chiu Chow (romanized as Chaozhou) region of Canton to port cities in Southeast Asia has created a vibrant exchange in food traditions. Thus, such Thai ingredients as fish sauce and galangal appear in Chaozhou cooking more often than any other Chinese cuisine (chilies, however, are used with discretion). This hybrid fare is a rarity in Toronto, so this casual, family-style restaurant in a Scarborough strip mall is a real find. The braised duck with garlic-vinegar dipping sauce is quite respectable, as are popular deep-fried shrimp, fish balls and crab rolls,; which are nicely done but would be tastier if the seafood didn’t have to travel from B.C. The huge menu offers many other regional favourites, including fish sauce–piqued steamed chicken, steamed or pan-fried mullet, pomfret or eel and many offal dishes, all of which keep diners busy until 3 a.m. Set menus (offered in Chinese only—ask for translation) make ordering easier.