Yonge and Eglinton is lucky to have such scrumptious dim sum (served at lunch and dinner) nearby. Quality reigns on the plate, especially among dumplings, delicate of skin and subtle of filling: scallop, mushroom and celery, say, or tea- flavoured pork. Thin wheat noodles, served cold, shine with julienne carrot, cuke and shiitake, as well as sesame and hoisin sauces. Sweets intrigue, with heart-shaped jasmine jelly or flaky pumpkin-filled fritters. A pleasant room mitigates servers, who let dirty dishes languish into dessert. Small plates $3–$5.