While the Markham strip mall locale leaves much to be desired, inside this huge and garishly lit Sichuan eatery the crush and buzz is evidence of the kitchen’s strength. An army of servers shuttles giant, sizzling hotpots, platters of whole fish and cauldron-size bowls of soup to parties of six, 10 or more. Two binder-size menus offer hundreds of dishes—with photographs to whet the appetite. Stir-fried Gongbao chicken, with chilies and whole peanuts, delivers the sandy crunch of aromatic Sichuan peppercorns. A smoky heat builds to a delightfully numbing roar. Plump Shanghai fried udon noodles soothe the fire and present a pungent mix of sesame oil, oyster mushrooms, wood ear fungi, shrimp, pork and cabbage. Green beans fried with minced pork are irresistible, as are deep-fried spareribs tossed liberally in cumin. Szechuan pig’s ears, thinly sliced and served cold in aromatic sesame oil, seem like pancetta’s hot, flowery sister. Broth for won ton and duck soup is watery, but contents pack satisfying flavours, especially the duck. Skip overly sweet desserts. Service is quick, bordering on brusque. Mains $7–$27.