Banquettes and fabric-swathed walls provide a refreshingly refined setting for northern Chinese fare (majoring in dim sum) that generally hits the mark. Pancakes are delightful, studded with scallion and rolled around tender braised beef, or stuffed with green onion, shrimp and egg. Veg, ginger-inflected minced pork, or a pork and shrimp combo fills delicate steamed dumplings. The chef perfumes his 16 fish dishes with soy, ginger and scallions. Efficient service. Mains $14–$25.