Devotees wolf down rotis at every table, sending a clear message: order the roti! The supple pastry envelops such fillings as tender curried goat or meaty shrimp, both nestled in a tangle of wilted spinach and creamy squash. The corollary to this lesson is equally simple: stop there. Flaccid chicken smothered in fiery jerk sauce and detestable coconut cream pie that tastes as if it’s just been thawed do not belong on the same menu as the signature dish.