A main-floor lounge bar dominated by a plasma TV leads to a more sophisticated mezzanine where candlelight gleams off dark wood tables. Co-owner Dave Billington leads a smooth friendly staff and has put together a wine list that favours Ontario stars at bargain prices. Chef Deron Engbers’s menu shows the same respect for local ingredients and good value. Seared ostrich is unusually juicy and flavourful over a neat little flan of squash purée and crumbled chestnut. Mains can be hit-and-miss. A crisp-skinned fillet of river trout is perfectly cooked, served with a celeriac mille feuille gratin, a salty mushroom ragoût and sweet carrots of many colours. Grilled pork loin is juicy, but its flavour is missing in action. Such homey desserts as hot apple crumble with custard are brought in from Circles & Squares. Mains $16–$25.