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Restaurants Guide › Bistro
Universal Grill
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- 1071 Shaw St. (at Dupont) • View on map »
- 416-588-5928
Editorial Review
Such small touches as louvred blinds and carnival-glass water pitchers complete the scene for a menu evolved from classic truck-stop fare. A formidable wedge of baked polenta affords pure comfort, served atop fried mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, capers, black olives and goat cheese. Cornmeal crust on tenderly fried calamari crumbles too readily; its chipotle-tzatziki dip is bitter. Braised baby back ribs are glorious, the dry and spicy variety packing a slow chipotle burn. A mound of ribs comes alongside plump yam fries and coleslaw. Rosemary chicken breast arrives slightly overcooked, yet with intense rosemary flavour and a delectable demi-glace. Mains $15–$25.
- Closed Monday
- Outdoor dining More like this »
- Vegetarian More like this »
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