Restaurants GuideBistro

Universal Grill star [?]

Reviewed by Toronto Life
  • 1071 Shaw St. (at Dupont) View on map »
  • 416-588-5928
dollar[?]
Price Description
Editorial Review

Such small touches as louvred blinds and carnival-glass water pitchers complete the scene for a menu evolved from classic truck-stop fare. A formidable wedge of baked polenta affords pure comfort, served atop fried mushrooms, roasted tomatoes, capers, black olives and goat cheese. Cornmeal crust on tender fried calamari crumbles too readily; its chipotle-tzatziki dip is bitter. Braised baby back ribs are glorious, the dry and spicy variety packing a slow chipotle burn. A mound of ...

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