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Restaurants › Bistro

Universal Grill star [?]

Reviewed by Toronto LifeWith a pressed tin ceiling, bevelled mirrors and sleek Formica tables, this diner begs its patrons to pull out their fedoras, suspenders and, for the ladies, spotless white gloves. Portions are not for demure diners. Humongous apps include portobello mushroom salad and a hefty slice of crispy polenta balanced on a hillock of roasted tomatoes and mushrooms. In a faceoff between ribs and steak, the ribs take it, but only by the grace of a tangy dry rub and ample sweetly spicy sauce. Perfectly seared liver could use more caramelized onions and fewer yam frites, but we’re delighted to eat our greens: crisp green beans and tender rapini. The wine list is heavy on full-bodied reds, and the bar is well stocked. Mains $15–$25.

  • map marker #1
    1071 Shaw St. (at Dupont)
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